Rolex Submariner Explained: History, Features and Current Prices

History: From tool watch to icon

• Birth of a legend (1953): The story began with René-Paul Jeanneret, a Rolex director and avid diver, who saw the need for a robust and legible wristwatch for underwater use. The first Submariner models, including references 6204 and 6205, were unveiled in 1954 and were certified as waterproof to 100 meters (330 feet), a remarkable achievement for its era. Early designs featured slimmer cases, pencil-style hands, and a bidirectional rotating bezel.
• The James Bond era (1960s): The Submariner’s rise to mass appeal was cemented in the 1960s, thanks to its appearance on the wrist of Sean Connery in early James Bond films. The “Big Crown” reference 6538 became a symbol of the suave superspy, elevating the watch from a practical tool to a coveted fashion statement. This era also introduced crucial design elements that define the Submariner today, such as the now-iconic “Mercedes” hands and crown guards, which first appeared on the reference 5512.
• Expansion of the line (1970s–1980s): The late 1960s saw the introduction of the first Submariner with a date function, the reference 1680. This was a pivotal moment, shifting the Submariner’s identity further toward a luxury timepiece. The late 1970s brought another milestone with the transition from acrylic to scratch-resistant sapphire crystals and the enhancement of water resistance to 300 meters (1,000 feet).
• Refinement and the Cerachrom era (2010–present): The 2010 reference 1166xx series marked a major upgrade with the introduction of the scratch-proof and fade-resistant Cerachrom ceramic bezel. These models also featured a bulkier “Super Case” with wider lugs, giving the watch a more substantial wrist presence. In 2020, Rolex refined the Submariner once more, increasing the case diameter to 41mm but with a more tapered lug design, offering a modern feel while evoking the elegance of its vintage predecessors.

Features and technology

• Oystersteel: Since the late 1980s, all steel Submariners are crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel (904L steel). This special alloy is highly resistant to corrosion and takes an exceptional polish, ensuring the watch’s longevity and lasting beauty.
• Cerachrom bezel: The current unidirectional rotating bezel is equipped with a Cerachrom insert, a proprietary ceramic material. The 60-minute graduation is coated in platinum or gold using a PVD process, providing outstanding durability and legibility.
• Oyster case and Triplock crown: The hermetically sealed Oyster case and the patented Triplock winding crown, with its triple gasket system, ensure the watch’s impressive 300-meter waterproofness.
• Calibers 3230 and 3235: The latest generation Submariners are powered by Rolex’s in-house Caliber 3230 (no-date) and Caliber 3235 (date) movements. These superlative chronometers offer a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, an efficient Chronergy escapement, and the paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring for enhanced precision and shock resistance.
• Chromalight display: The dial features a Chromalight display, where hands and hour markers are filled with a luminescent material that emits a long-lasting blue glow for excellent visibility in dark conditions.
• Oyster bracelet with Glidelock clasp: The solid-link Oyster bracelet is fitted with an Oysterlock safety clasp to prevent accidental opening. It also incorporates the Glidelock extension system, allowing for micro-adjustments of up to 20mm without tools—a practical feature for wearing the watch over a wetsuit or for everyday comfort.

Current models and prices

• Submariner (No-Date, reference 124060): The purest form of the Submariner, with a black Cerachrom bezel and a black dial. Retail prices typically start in the low to mid five figures, but secondary market values are often higher due to demand.
• Submariner Date (references 126610LN/126610LV): This classic is available with a black dial and black bezel (LN) or a black dial with a vibrant green bezel (LV), affectionately nicknamed the “Starbucks”. The retail price for the steel date model is higher than the no-date, with market prices reflecting the heightened popularity of the green bezel version.
• Rolesor (steel and gold) and all-gold models: The Submariner is also available in Yellow Rolesor (steel and yellow gold), featuring black or blue dials and bezels. Full 18k yellow gold models are offered with black or blue color schemes, while an 18k white gold version is available with a black dial and blue bezel, nicknamed the “Cookie Monster”. Retail and secondary market prices increase significantly with the use of precious metals.